Continue until all lathing has been removed. Remove all nails from the studs as you go and drop them into an old can so you know where they are and won't step on one. Use your pry bar to hook under the lath strips that are exposed and pull them away from the studs to which they're nailed. If you are opening an entire area, like to create a doorway, then do the other side of the wall. Keep hitting the plaster with the hammer until it is all broken up and falling from the lath. Using your hammer, hit the plaster hard enough to crack it and start it to crumble. Turn off the electricity to that area at your breaker box or fuse box so if there's wiring in the wall you won't run the risk of electrical shock. Make First Hitsĭetermine the exact area you want to remove and mark it with a pencil or chalk. ![]() Turn off the fans on your air conditioner or furnace also. You may also want to use plastic drop cloths to seal off doorways to other rooms so the dust won't travel to other parts of the house. It would also be wise to move as much furniture and accessories as possible from the room to a safer spot, or to at least cover them with drop cloths. Put down your drop cloths to protect your floors because this is a very messy, dusty, dirty project. If you're removing part of a wall to install a door, half wall, breakfast bar, or pass-thru, you'll be fine. This may be more of a job than you can take on, so you may want to hire a contractor. This whole building was made without a piece of lumber most likely.If you are removing a load-bearing wall, you need to be skilled enough to build a header to support the weight of the rafters and roof above. The door frames appear to be made of metal - no studs above them. There are concrete ceilinns and concrete floors and then basically all the walls are non loadbearing, with concrete pillars probably hidden deep inside somewhere.Ģ. It's an apartment building built in the late fifties early 60s. In answer to a couple of recurrent questions:ġ. This is a fabulous idea, as I do have access to both sides. Also thank you everyone for your super fast, varies responses. That way you are less likely to crack the plaster when you tighten the nuts. Even better, slip the bolts through a piece of EMT or other tubing that's as long as the wall is thick, and then put some big fender washers under the head and nut. Alternatively, if you have access to both sides of the wall, and a long enough drill bit, mount the board with bolts that go all the way through the wall. Toggles with the longest, widest wings you can find. That will, locally, turn the wall into an impromptu SIP. ![]() ![]() If the walls are as unsupported as you claim, you can make them rigid in the area where you're attaching things by pumping some expanding urethane foam insulation into the cavity. Wall cabinets are sometimes installed this way because it's so easily undone or adjusted. This system allows you to easily take down the hangboard and reconsider your wall mount system if necessary. Then simply hook one bevelled strip over the other. Mount the other on the back of the plywood that your hangboard is on, with the bevel down and its toe outward. If you've got access to a saw, you could also rip a couple of strips of wood or plywood or something with a 10 or 15 degree bevel along one edge, and mount one strip on the wall with the bevel up and its toe outward.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |